Eating Out
There's nothing quite like the wide-ranging menu of Greek taverna. From traditional "tourist fare" like souvlaki and gyro (so good), to the less well known but more traditional over-baked dishes...Greek cuisine is one of the most multi-dimensional in the world.
You'll find that waiters don't hover, ask you how your first bite was, interrupt you every five minutes to see how you're doing...they leave you alone. If you need something you call them over. It's not bad service. They're leaving you in peace to enjoy your meal!
They also don't clear your dishes until after you've left. This is because the tradition in Greece is to survey "the damage", that is, the amount and variety of food you've enjoyed!
Which reminds me, it's very unusual in Greece for people to order their own meal off a menu. More often you all order a number of dishes for the table so everyone enjoys a bit of everything. Greek salad, fries/chips, vlita (boiled greens), tzatziki, grilled meatballs, gavros (fried baby anchovies)...is a great start. Add to it a moussaka, a pastitsio, gigandes baked beans or anything else that looks yummy on the menu. Don't be shy about asking what todays oven dishes are!
Tipping is not a thing in Greece like it is here. If you leave a euro or two as a gesture of thanks after a meal then you’re good. Too big of a tip is considered an insult as it’s considered you flexing wealth. But if you feel you got great service, a good tip is always appreciated. Most people in Greece struggle financially.
Coffee and Tea Culture
Are you coffee drinkers? Here’s a translation…
Fredo means cold, so…
Fredo Cappuccino, Fredo Espresso are iced drinks. Ask for sugar and milk to be added if you want. Most places also have almond milk.
If you want the warm version just drop the “Fredo” when you order.
For me my favourite coffee is a Frappe. This is instant coffee whisked with water and ice (and milk and sugar if you want). If you want to try one order it at the beach bar and see what you think. I highly recommend them “mEtrio mE gAla” meaning a frappe with a little sugar and milk.
And just once, order a Greek coffee (cafE ellinikO), again ask for it “mEtrio” meaning with a bit of sugar…but no milk.
Beach Bar
You’ll come across our beach bar when you go down to the beach. Umbrellas and chairs are yours to use for the price of a couple of coffees. You can plant your asses there for a day and just sip coffee or cold beer! They prefer cash, but you can pay by credit card inside if you like.
Groceries
We stick with AB Supermarket in Xylokastro. Great selection, and nice people. If you are feta fans ask the folks at the cheese counter for Feta from Epeirus ("Feta Ipirou"). Our favourite. Other super Greek cheeses are Kaseri and Graviera, both cheddar-like but with unique flavour profiles and worth sampling to get a sense of "local". A decent wine collection there too, although please don't expect anything close to California quality!
The Farmers Market
This is an absolute must experience. Right next to the AB Supermarket every Friday from 8am to 11am is the local farmers market. This is a riot of colour and sound that’s unforgettable. Take your cash and stock up on fruit and veg here. There’s also a couple who sell fantastic local honey and all kinds of folks selling wild herbs, nuts, beans…pretty much everything.
Butcher
Two doors down from the BP gas station in Xylokastro is our butcher called Mavronasios(MAYRONASIOS on the sign). Amazing quality beef, pork and chicken. We have a gas BBQ at the house, so try their burgers (mutton, lamb, pork and chicken variants). If you order ground beef they grind it there fresh...it's very good.
Restaurants
Our favourite is Akrotiri at sunset (turn right at the main road...it's 500m east of Sykia just past the bridge. A wooden deck over the sea, amazing views and the food is top notch. Go Greek style by ordering a number of sides to share: Greek Salad (HoriAtiki), tzatziki, gavros (fried anchovies...trust me!), a moussaka, and if they have them, stuffed tomatoes and stuffed vine leaves. If you get stuck on the menu get me on WhatsApp and I’ll help you out 😀
Along the Sykia promenade there are a number of decent restaurants and coffee shops. A late evening glass of wine at a table on the shore can be quite special.
“To Stenaki”is our favourite fast food joint. They make the very best souvlaki/gyro wraps and fries. Look for the pharmacy on the main Sykia road (Green flashing cross sign)...it's 30ft up that side street...and the beer is ice cold!
The Bakery.
Our local bakery is fantastic. The first shop on the left as you walk into Sykia. They bake their own bread every day, as well as tirpoitas (cheese pies) and spanakopitas (spinach pies) which are to die for. Also their Pagotini mini ice creams are to die for in the case to the left of the front door.
Xylokastro Beach Bars and Restos.
Walk or drive into Xylokastro and you'll notice a large pine forest along the sea front. That's Pefkias, and is worth spending time there. Along that stretch, between us and Zylokastro, are several beach bars and restaurants worth checking out. But our absolute indulgence is a patisserie called Choux Choux in downtown Xylokastro (about 3 miles from the house, so walkable). It's owned by Dimitri, a local who studied and worked as a pastry chef in Paris then came back to open his own shop. Everything is handmade from local ingredients, including the ice cream and sorbet which is divine.
Wineries
We have one of Greece’s best wine regions close by, Nemea. Google Karamitsos Winery and head there for a day trip (we usually do it after a stop at the ancient site of Mycenae). Fabulous wines, amazing views and the young lady there speaks great English and has so much enthusiasm. Remind her of the old guy who comes every year wearing the same green t-shirt…sadly, that's me!
Village Adventure
If you want a real culinary adventure, follow this link to one of our favourite spots. To Arhondiko tis Zaholis (the Prince of Zaholi). This is an amazing resto in a gorgeous mountain village about 45 mins from the villa. Konstandina and Andreas, the owners, are amazing at what they do, and most of the crowd is Greek, travelling from as far afield as Athens to enjoy their incredible food and atmosphere. Tell them Chris and Martyna from Canada sent you and they'll treat you extra special!